Short hair and men's cuts

Short hair is quick to style but quick to lose its shape. Knowing the basic vocabulary makes it much easier to ask for exactly what you want.
Clipper grades
Clipper guards are numbered, and the higher the number, the longer the hair is left. As a rough guide, each grade adds about an eighth of an inch (around 3 mm): a grade 1 is very short, a grade 4 leaves about half an inch. Grade 0 means no guard. Half grades exist too. Grades vary slightly between brands, so if you find one you like, note it down and ask for the same again.
Fades and tapers
- Taper: the hair gets gradually shorter towards the neckline and around the ears, but doesn't go down to skin. Classic and low-maintenance.
- Fade: a more dramatic graduation, often down to skin. Described as low, mid or high depending on where the shortest part starts.
- Scissor cut: no clippers, or clippers only at the neckline. Softer and better for growing hair longer.
On top
Say how much length you want to keep on top, and whether you want it textured (point-cut so it moves) or blunt. Mention how you wear it: pushed back, to the side, forward, or messy. A good barber or hairdresser will cut it to fall that way.
Styling products
- Clay or paste: matte finish, natural texture, medium hold.
- Pomade: shine and slick, classic styles.
- Wax: firm, pliable hold.
- Sea salt spray or mousse: volume and grit before blow-drying.
Start with a small amount, warm it between your palms, and work it through from the back to the front. It is easier to add more than to wash it out.
How often to go back
Hair grows roughly a centimetre a month, so short cuts lose their shape fastest. Skin fades often look best for one to two weeks; tapers and scissor cuts usually last three to six weeks. See how often to get a haircut.
Last reviewed: November 2026